Location update: I'm now in Los Angeles, helping Ben pack up. We're renting a truck and moving his stuff up to Douglas and Nancy's place in Ojai tomorrow, and on Tuesday we start our cross-country drive. I think we expect to be in Philadelphia on Saturday evening; we're spending an extra day in Bryce, and an evening with Jeanine and Andrew. I just spent a week in Indiana and Michigan, seeing West Lafayette where Jeanine and Andrew live and going up to
Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, on the northern part of Michigan's lower peninsula.
Sleeping Bear Dunes was really awesome. Jeanine and I took a one and a half hour ferry ride out to South Manitou Island and backpacked there for three days. We stayed at Popple Campground, wehich was about 3.5 miles from the ferry landing and was the furthest, most deserted campsite. It had some patches of poison ivy (which I can now identify but had never before seen), but not in our campsite and not on the path. Our campsite had a short trail, less than 100 yards, down to the beach. The water in Lake Michigan was cold and clear, and the bottom was these big smooth rocks. I swam in it a few times, at our campsite, near the lighthouse, and just off the mainland. The hiking was beautiful, green and full of colors and sounds. We saw wild orchids, wild lilies, wild roses, and verdant birch-maple forests. There were also a lot of animals: lots of toads, snakes, turtles, fish, a black squirrel, chipmunks, ducks, seagulls, and a huge majestic wild swan. We hiked all around until our feet hurt and our muscles were sore, and sang old Girl Scout songs. It was fantastic.
South Manitou Island has one of the only natural harbors between Chicago and the Mackinaw Straits on Lake Michigan, so it was settled pretty early in the 19th century. A lighthouse and life-saving station were established near the harbor, which saved many lives. Nonetheless, the island is surrounded by shipwrecks, and there are actually many shipwrecks all over the Great Lakes. Originally, both South and North Manitou Islands had huge pine forests, which were quickly logged out for lumber and to power the ships travelling the Great Lakes. (North Manitou Island is bigger and less developed, but had less ferry service so we didn't go there this time.) When the lumber forests were cleared, inhabitants (max. population, 100) used the cleared land for agriculture, and apple and cherry orchards did especially well. But the services on the island started to decrease, and I think only around 20-30 people were living on the island when the Park Service bought it in the early 70s. At that point, most of the island was still cleared for agriculture. In the early 80s it was incorporated into Sleeping Bear Dunes, and for the last thirty years vegetation and birch-maple forests have been overtaking the island. There are still some relatively young pine forests on the south side of the island, though.
We also had an especially good food trip. The easiest food to take backpacking is dried or reconsituted, things like Lipton noodle packets, dried fruit, nuts, crackers, etc. These are great until you've been eating them for a few days. Luckily, when you're backpacking all food tastes amazing. But we brought a lot of semi-perishable stuff... ravioli, Gruyere, hummus, and onions, tomatoes, and avocados for vegetarian fajitas. There was also a pretty funny moment after we had spent the return ferry trip daydreaming about food, and cheese in particular, and how much we wanted it. But the towns near Sleeping Bear Dunes are small and limited, so we figured our chances of getting good cheese were slim. The ferry docked, we put on our packs, and not 50 feet from the dock did we see an old wooden building with a big sign: 'CHEESE'. It was a gourmet cheese store right by the dock! We didn't have any cash on us, but we ran back to the car, grabbed some, and bought local raclette and chocolate-covered cherries. We had the raclette that night, melted on garlicky toasted bagels, and it was awesome.
The day after we got back from backpacking, we rented a canoe and canoed the Lower Platte River. It was our first time in a canoe, but we didn't capsize and didn't really hit anything, though there was a close call with a fish weir and some miscommunication. We floated over lots of cool-looking fish, and since it was early-ish in the morning, the river was pretty much empty. It was extremely quiet and peaceful, and a lot of fun, and it's interesting being the steerer for the canoe. It made Jeanine and I both want to try a longer canoe trip, maybe on the Wabash or the Manistee, though it would have to be pretty easy because we're both still beginners.
It was also cool to see where Jeanine and Andrew are lviing now. I saw the Wabash Valley Historical Trust, where Jeanine is working, and some of the cool older buildings in Lafayette, like the
courthouse. I also saw a lot of the Purdue campus, and the acoustics lab that Andrew works in, which is really cool. There's a horticultural park across the street from their apartment which has lots of trails through beautiful woods, though many of the plants have labels. It's just nice to see where your close friends are living and working, and what they do all day.
Overall, the trip was great. It's so much fun to go backpacking, so nice to be out in nature, so good to see old friends. And so strange yet wonderful to come back at the end to Los Angeles, fly into LAX for the last time, and finally have a relationship without the long distance.